Atlantic Dungaree
Atlantic Dungaree
I will happily concede that there's a place in every working person’s wardrobe for mass produced garments. You know the ones--conventional with a strong value proposition and low price point. But it goes without saying that convenience and scale don't leave much room for detail and soul. It seems I keep finding myself with a front row seat to the extinction of small scale, specialty apparel manufacturing in the USA since I started this work a little over a decade ago. Back then, needle-in-a-haystack research could lead to a town of 200 people in rural Tennessee and a honey-hole of seamstresses with a varsity streak for old fashioned blue jeans. If it was meant to be, I trusted that opportunities would find their way. While things have certainly changed, the serendipity of all it all remains the same. Enter Glenn Liburd, one of the most respected makers of blue jeans in the USA.
Glenn’s encyclopedic knowledge of American denim, and his decades of experience as a patternmaker, designer, and craftsman cannot be neatly summarized in a quick sound bite. From small local workshops making jeans and other apparel for the local oil field workers, mechanics, and other tradesmen in Trinidad, Glenn’s journey with denim eventually led him to NYC as lead denim tailor for Levi’s Lot 1 bespoke denim program, producing the most premium, and completely custom version of their most iconic product, the 501 jean.
When I first entered Glenn’s studio, about 45 min from our shop doors in Pawtucket, Rhode Island, I was not surprised to be greeted by a sea of familiar faces –a robust collection of vintage sewing machines, including a few I’d never seen, like the Reece, a marvel of the Industrial Age and developed up the road in Boston.
Glenn and I immediately bonded over the comedy and poetry of American made blue jeans, but beyond the obvious, hanging out in the corner of Glenn’s studio was a painting that looked like the ocean. The mere mention unlocked a deep and unwavering respect for the sea. As we talked about the way place fingerprints the design of simple uniforms—standing in line for fresh sea moss, empty Oyster blender in hand, or treading through thickets of Rosa rugosa—we found ourselves dreaming up our ideal work dungaree, one that reflects our past and current lives in the shadow of New England’s great workwear traditions.
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Pulling a roll of White Oak indigo denim with deep grain from his archive, we talked about the joys of making patterns with old school, shrink to fit denim. Beyond kitsch, we both agreed a soak in the Atlantic ocean was the perfect way to shrink to fit before heading to our local laundry. There’s a lot to be said for salt kissed textiles and giving a pant this rugged a little head start on the break in.
Double needle felled inseams are about the only double needle stitches done by machine on this pant —the remaining double and single needle work is all Glenn’s painting by hand. An unlacquered brass stick and poke buckle back, designed to age in time, and custom antique brass shanks made at the legendary New England button maker, Waterbury (seriously, since 1812) take the cake. Waistband seams are are beautifully finished in 100% cotton fisher stripe herringbone with tacks for extra durability where needed. As a wink and a nod to Southern New England's whaling history, for our fishtail notch, we referenced the Atlantic Humpback’s fluke making a slightly subtle, non costume-y statement.
About the fit: The pattern of this pant is truly unisex, designed to have ease throughout and extra length for a proper cuff. A 30 inch inseam will finish approximately 32-33 inches. This dungaree is mid-rise, relaxed throughout with a straight, wide leg all the way down to hem.
Given the number of patterns and limited denim, we are offering two opportunities for pre-order. Order now until December 23rd at 3EST for late January delivery with a second round of pre orders to follow later this winter, in time for spring.
Preshrunk 100% cotton, 14 oz. selvedge denim, classic indigo grain, White Oak Mill
5 button Fly, custom brass shanks Waterbury Button Co, CT
unlaquered brass buckle back, double back pocket, thigh pencil or screwdriver pocket
Limited run, each pair proudly made by Glenn Liburd in Pawtucket Rhode Island.
-Unisex, mid-rise, relaxed through the seat and thigh, straight wide leg all the way down to the hem.
Please note: Inseams finish 2-3inches longer to account for cuffing. A 30” inseam finishes to~ 32-33”
For points of measure, we encourage you to measure your waist where it creases when you bend over and compare the widest point of your thigh & knee.
These dungarees are cut and sewn by hand; each pair may vary slightly from the provided measurements. Please feel free to reach out with your sizing questions: Whitney@gamineworkwear.com
All measurements in inches